Monday, May 28, 2012

Cortland's Past and Present

     In 1883, D. Morris Kurtz published Past and Present, a three-part "historical and descriptive sketch of Cortland, N.Y., and its manufacturing and commercial interests, showing its attractions as a place of residence and advantages as a location for manufacturing enterprises." The book opens with these words of wonder, pride and optimism:

     Lying on a broad and level plain, in the picturesque valley of the Tioughnioga, at the confluence of the east and west branches of the Tioughnioga river, surrounded by high hills through which debouch five rich valleys leading North, South, East, and West, the pretty village of Cortland is a worthy rival of the most beautiful town that adorns the great Empire State.
     Covering an area of two square miles, laid out in irregular squares, with wide and even streets, uniformly shaded by rows of maple, elm or pine trees, and lined with pretty cottages, elegant mansions or handsome business structures, Cortland, especially in the summer time, presents a most attractive appearance. Main street, the principal business thoroughfare, commencing at the foot of the South hills, and running due north for more than a mile and a half, then diagonally northwest until it meets Adams street and forms the Homer road, contains many neat residences, and is lined, with the exception of that portion devoted exclusively to business, with beautiful maples. But even that portion is not entirely devoid of foliage, for right in its heart, set not more than ten feet apart, is that row of noble maples fronting the old brick mansion of the Randalls, and its acre or more or gravelled walks winding through beds of beautiful flowers, rare shrubbery and stately old trees, separated from the public walk only by a low, time-stained wall of stone, with old fashioned high arched gates of iron. And both north and south of this "oasis," are many structures of brick and iron which in architectural appearance and proportions would do credit to much larger cities, and are occupied by enterprising merchants. Then one block east, and running parallel, is Church street, with its extraordinary width, that is not sufficient even, to prevent the majestic trees, full blown many a year ago, from casting their shadows clear across; and here are the churches, the old and the new side by side, the more costly and elegant Congregational edifice, erected in 1882, along side the old fashioned cobble-stone church of the Universalists, erected in 1837; the old frame church of the Presbyterians, built in 1828, between the modern and expensive structures, with their heavenly towering spires, of the Baptists and Methodists; and her, too, near the site of the old Cortlandville Academy, is the tasteful monument erected in 1876 to the memory of Cortland's fallen braves, and which stands like a sentinel on guard in front of the attractive grounds of the Normal School, extending east to Greenbush street, and laid out in tortuous paths, with well kept lawns, neatly trimmed shrubbery and growing trees adding largely to the appearance of the pleasing school buildings. Still further east extends new streets to the banks of the Tioughnioga, where is heard the hum of machinery in busy manufacturies, and are springing up pretty little cottages, while in the southeast is Blodgett's unique park, with its trout ponds, and myriads of "speckled beauties," fountains, romantic lover's retreat, and wonderful maze and all the other delights and surprises the genius of this self-taught landscape gardener has furnished. And on the west side of Main street looms up Monroe Heights, on which are built fine residences, and which in time will doubtless be terraced and form a delightful spot, starting at the corner of Main and Port Watson streets, and running diagonally southwest, Tompkins street, with its handsome dwellings, beautiful lawns and abundance of shade-giving trees, forms a favorite place of residence, while a rippling brook winds its way around the Heights and meandering through the meadows mingles its limpid waters with the Tioughnioga, which, entering on the north, skirts the base of Benham's Hill and being joined by the East branch goes murmuring along the eastern borders of the village to help swell the current of the Chenango, which in turn lends its assistance to the Susquehanna and thus journeys to the sea. And when the surrounding hills are covered with their wealth of foliage and the trees throughout the village are full in their leaf, no panegyric, however glowing, could more than do it justice.

     Past and Present was copied for the USGenWeb Project. It is available at:  http://www.usgenweb.info/nycortland/books/pandp-1.htm

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