The Cortland Democrat, Friday, May 4, 1888.
Cortland County Farmers' Club.
A meeting of the Cortland County Farmers' Club was
held in Union Hall last Saturday afternoon, at 8 o'clock, and was called to
order by President Blodgett. The subject for discussion was "The best method
of raising potatoes," and was opened by the veteran potato-grower, Robert
Purvis of Cortland, formerly of Harford.
Mr. Purvis said in substance, I find the best soil for potatoes in a sandy loam or gravelly soil. Heavy tenacious soils do not answer as well. The potatoes are more likely to rot and the quality is inferior. Sod ground is preferable. I like to plow a stiff sod in the fall, or as early as possible in the spring. The latter will answer if the sod is not very tough. When I break up in the fall a meadow of four or five years standing, I find that the potatoes grow so stiffly that the bugs do not trouble them so. One year recently I planted ten acres of potatoes. Three acres were plowed in the fall and three in the spring before the frost was fairly out of the ground, the remaining four sometime later.
The potatoes upon the six acres were much more thrifty than upon the remaining four acres, and, while the bugs never troubled the former, I had to apply parts green to the latter twice. I plow about seven inches deep, using a jointer, and harrow thoroughly. I mark the ground three feet apart each way and from two to three inches deep. The teeth of my marker are four or five inches wide. With this width tooth, the dirt is not so likely to roll back into the mark. I cover my potatoes with from three to four inches of dirt, and usually plant from the 5th to the 15th of May. I would never plant in April in this climate, on account of the danger of frosts which injure potatoes very much if they are up three or four inches.
I have experimented some with phosphates, have used the Syracuse phosphate. Sometimes put it over the potato in the hill in this manner: above the potato, a little dirt, then phosphate, then more dirt. I think a better way, however, is to drill it in or sow broadcast and harrow in. The phosphate should never be left exposed to air. I don't call the phosphate wasted that falls between the rows, as in cultivating and hilling it is sure to reach the potatoes sooner or later. I put on about 300 pounds to the acre or an average of one ounce to the hill. This will increase the yield about fifty bushels to the acre. Potato ground needs to be pretty strong.
When I use manure, I want to plow it under, because fresh manure, especially if applied to the surface, is likely to cause rot. Horse manure is the best to use. In planting I select potatoes about the size of a hen's egg, of a size that eight or ten will weigh an ounce, and put in about ten bushels to the acre. A loam will take a little more seed than a gravelly soil, that is, one can plant a little larger potatoes. The trouble is in using too much seed that there will come too many vines and too many small potatoes.
I have never found a planting machine that suits me as well as covering by a hoe. I cultivate both ways thoroughly until the last of June when it is time to hill them up. Then I run a horse-hoe through the rows twice one way and once the other. If weeds come up after hilling, as late as the last of July, I still use the horse-hoe to keep them down. I prefer applying paris green dry, rather than in liquid form, as in the latter way the leaves are likely to be killed and besides it is usually more trouble to carry water around. I mix one pound of the poison with one hundred pounds of plaster and then apply with a sifter. My method of mixing is, to put both together in a barrel, put on the cover, and roll it back and forth on a frame prepared for the purpose.
Last year I used water lime. It may stick to the vines a little better than plaster. I still dig by hand, have tried several kinds of potato diggers, but with every kind one has to go over the ground so many times that I hardly think it pays.
In picking up the potatoes I sort them into two kinds, afterward in the barn or cellar pick out seed potatoes. I use crates in picking and hardly ever sell potatoes from the field. I call 300 bushels of merchantable potatoes a good yield to the acre.
Last year I lost from 200 to 900 bushels by rot. This is usually caused by wet weather. In my experience when rot is prevalent I have usually let the potatoes remain in the ground until late. I don't think much is gained by early digging in such seasons, as they will continue to rot after digging.
I think in good seasons potatoes may be raised at a profit at thirty cents per bushel if delivered in the fall. I think the Burbank and White Star are the best varieties and that the White Elephant is nothing other than a late variety of Beauty of Hebron.
In reply to some questions, Mr. Purvis said potatoes should never be cut for planting until very near to the time when they are to be planted.
Several years ago I lost half a crop by cutting the seed in the last of April and spreading it upon the damp board floor of a cellar for about two weeks. All the potatoes grew a little when planted, but they seemed weakly. If cut and put in a barrel and they heat, they are also injured. Potatoes should not be permitted to remain in the sun too long before planting, as they are liable to be injured coming out of a cool cellar. If potatoes are put in a pile in the fall after digging, they should not be left over four feet deep, as they may heat.
C. M. Bean, of McGrawville, said, I usually plow in the spring and use sod ground for potatoes. If manure is fine, I put it on top, otherwise plow it under. I plant in rows three feet apart one way and two feet apart the other and cultivate only one way. This may for one reason be partly due to the fact that my farm lies on the side hill and it is easier not to cultivate up and down the hill. I have been accustomed to get on more seed than ten bushels per acre. I find that potatoes are raised more economically by using the horse as much as possible and consequently I use a hoe only the last time over. My method of dealing with bugs is much the same as Mr. Purvis' except that I oftentimes use canaille instead of plaster. If applied in the morning when the dew is on, it forms a kind of paste that sticks better than plaster, and besides it is lighter to carry.
Until a better machine is found than I have ever seen, I prefer hand digging. My man has several times dug ninety bushels of potatoes in a day of ten hours. He uses a fork. I sort on the field. I prefer Burbank and Beauty of Hebron for varieties, the latter don't yield as largely as some other kinds but I think it is the best for eating.
Three years ago I was in Iowa and I found that the potato liked best was the Burbank, and it was really excellent. The seed came from New York, but here it was poor enough that year. I use phosphate, but never in the hill. I place it close by where it will be thrown up by the shovel plow. I think it is a good plan in digging to select potatoes from large and vigorous hills to use for seed.
Edward Barnes—When potatoes begin to rot in the fall, I get a scythe and cut the tops of my potatoes all off, and I usually have good potatoes while my neighbors have poor. In hoeing, I pull out the smaller vines, leaving only five or six. This produces larger potatoes.
J. D. F. Woolston—I think it is a benefit to change seed at times. This makes a more vigorous growth. I have a friend who is accustomed to select his seed the first thing in picking up the potatoes. He selects straight, smooth potatoes of moderate size and in this manner kept his yield up to 400 to 500 bushels per acre.
W. A. Bean—I think it depends on the soil whether or not seed needs to be changed. In Ohio a man told me that as often as once in three years they have to get new seed from New York or Michigan. The result is that cheap potatoes are raised from high priced seed. I plant my potatoes three feet apart one way and in [drills] less than two feet apart the other way. I never use phosphate.
A. D. Blodgett—I used a digger last fall and although we had to pick over the ground several times we could do it more rapidly than by a hoe. When later we plowed the field for wheat, some more potatoes were found, but the amount lost was not sufficient to make up for the time saved.
R. L. Dart of Freetown—I have used with. great success the phosphate sold by Gates & Gage, about four hundred pounds to the acre. Sometimes I have drilled it in, and at other times I have applied about a tablespoonful to a hill. The latter gave the better results. In the latter case I put the phosphate under the potatoes and separated by a little dirt.
All the members present seemed to be of the opinion that best varieties to raise are Beauty of Hebron, Burbank, White Star and White Rose. These usually bring the same price at the car when sold at wholesale, and a potato dealer says he often ships them together without attempting to keep them separate.
The subject for the next meeting will be the "Cultivation of Corn."
Mr. Purvis said in substance, I find the best soil for potatoes in a sandy loam or gravelly soil. Heavy tenacious soils do not answer as well. The potatoes are more likely to rot and the quality is inferior. Sod ground is preferable. I like to plow a stiff sod in the fall, or as early as possible in the spring. The latter will answer if the sod is not very tough. When I break up in the fall a meadow of four or five years standing, I find that the potatoes grow so stiffly that the bugs do not trouble them so. One year recently I planted ten acres of potatoes. Three acres were plowed in the fall and three in the spring before the frost was fairly out of the ground, the remaining four sometime later.
The potatoes upon the six acres were much more thrifty than upon the remaining four acres, and, while the bugs never troubled the former, I had to apply parts green to the latter twice. I plow about seven inches deep, using a jointer, and harrow thoroughly. I mark the ground three feet apart each way and from two to three inches deep. The teeth of my marker are four or five inches wide. With this width tooth, the dirt is not so likely to roll back into the mark. I cover my potatoes with from three to four inches of dirt, and usually plant from the 5th to the 15th of May. I would never plant in April in this climate, on account of the danger of frosts which injure potatoes very much if they are up three or four inches.
I have experimented some with phosphates, have used the Syracuse phosphate. Sometimes put it over the potato in the hill in this manner: above the potato, a little dirt, then phosphate, then more dirt. I think a better way, however, is to drill it in or sow broadcast and harrow in. The phosphate should never be left exposed to air. I don't call the phosphate wasted that falls between the rows, as in cultivating and hilling it is sure to reach the potatoes sooner or later. I put on about 300 pounds to the acre or an average of one ounce to the hill. This will increase the yield about fifty bushels to the acre. Potato ground needs to be pretty strong.
When I use manure, I want to plow it under, because fresh manure, especially if applied to the surface, is likely to cause rot. Horse manure is the best to use. In planting I select potatoes about the size of a hen's egg, of a size that eight or ten will weigh an ounce, and put in about ten bushels to the acre. A loam will take a little more seed than a gravelly soil, that is, one can plant a little larger potatoes. The trouble is in using too much seed that there will come too many vines and too many small potatoes.
I have never found a planting machine that suits me as well as covering by a hoe. I cultivate both ways thoroughly until the last of June when it is time to hill them up. Then I run a horse-hoe through the rows twice one way and once the other. If weeds come up after hilling, as late as the last of July, I still use the horse-hoe to keep them down. I prefer applying paris green dry, rather than in liquid form, as in the latter way the leaves are likely to be killed and besides it is usually more trouble to carry water around. I mix one pound of the poison with one hundred pounds of plaster and then apply with a sifter. My method of mixing is, to put both together in a barrel, put on the cover, and roll it back and forth on a frame prepared for the purpose.
Last year I used water lime. It may stick to the vines a little better than plaster. I still dig by hand, have tried several kinds of potato diggers, but with every kind one has to go over the ground so many times that I hardly think it pays.
In picking up the potatoes I sort them into two kinds, afterward in the barn or cellar pick out seed potatoes. I use crates in picking and hardly ever sell potatoes from the field. I call 300 bushels of merchantable potatoes a good yield to the acre.
Last year I lost from 200 to 900 bushels by rot. This is usually caused by wet weather. In my experience when rot is prevalent I have usually let the potatoes remain in the ground until late. I don't think much is gained by early digging in such seasons, as they will continue to rot after digging.
I think in good seasons potatoes may be raised at a profit at thirty cents per bushel if delivered in the fall. I think the Burbank and White Star are the best varieties and that the White Elephant is nothing other than a late variety of Beauty of Hebron.
In reply to some questions, Mr. Purvis said potatoes should never be cut for planting until very near to the time when they are to be planted.
Several years ago I lost half a crop by cutting the seed in the last of April and spreading it upon the damp board floor of a cellar for about two weeks. All the potatoes grew a little when planted, but they seemed weakly. If cut and put in a barrel and they heat, they are also injured. Potatoes should not be permitted to remain in the sun too long before planting, as they are liable to be injured coming out of a cool cellar. If potatoes are put in a pile in the fall after digging, they should not be left over four feet deep, as they may heat.
C. M. Bean, of McGrawville, said, I usually plow in the spring and use sod ground for potatoes. If manure is fine, I put it on top, otherwise plow it under. I plant in rows three feet apart one way and two feet apart the other and cultivate only one way. This may for one reason be partly due to the fact that my farm lies on the side hill and it is easier not to cultivate up and down the hill. I have been accustomed to get on more seed than ten bushels per acre. I find that potatoes are raised more economically by using the horse as much as possible and consequently I use a hoe only the last time over. My method of dealing with bugs is much the same as Mr. Purvis' except that I oftentimes use canaille instead of plaster. If applied in the morning when the dew is on, it forms a kind of paste that sticks better than plaster, and besides it is lighter to carry.
Until a better machine is found than I have ever seen, I prefer hand digging. My man has several times dug ninety bushels of potatoes in a day of ten hours. He uses a fork. I sort on the field. I prefer Burbank and Beauty of Hebron for varieties, the latter don't yield as largely as some other kinds but I think it is the best for eating.
Three years ago I was in Iowa and I found that the potato liked best was the Burbank, and it was really excellent. The seed came from New York, but here it was poor enough that year. I use phosphate, but never in the hill. I place it close by where it will be thrown up by the shovel plow. I think it is a good plan in digging to select potatoes from large and vigorous hills to use for seed.
Edward Barnes—When potatoes begin to rot in the fall, I get a scythe and cut the tops of my potatoes all off, and I usually have good potatoes while my neighbors have poor. In hoeing, I pull out the smaller vines, leaving only five or six. This produces larger potatoes.
J. D. F. Woolston—I think it is a benefit to change seed at times. This makes a more vigorous growth. I have a friend who is accustomed to select his seed the first thing in picking up the potatoes. He selects straight, smooth potatoes of moderate size and in this manner kept his yield up to 400 to 500 bushels per acre.
W. A. Bean—I think it depends on the soil whether or not seed needs to be changed. In Ohio a man told me that as often as once in three years they have to get new seed from New York or Michigan. The result is that cheap potatoes are raised from high priced seed. I plant my potatoes three feet apart one way and in [drills] less than two feet apart the other way. I never use phosphate.
A. D. Blodgett—I used a digger last fall and although we had to pick over the ground several times we could do it more rapidly than by a hoe. When later we plowed the field for wheat, some more potatoes were found, but the amount lost was not sufficient to make up for the time saved.
R. L. Dart of Freetown—I have used with. great success the phosphate sold by Gates & Gage, about four hundred pounds to the acre. Sometimes I have drilled it in, and at other times I have applied about a tablespoonful to a hill. The latter gave the better results. In the latter case I put the phosphate under the potatoes and separated by a little dirt.
All the members present seemed to be of the opinion that best varieties to raise are Beauty of Hebron, Burbank, White Star and White Rose. These usually bring the same price at the car when sold at wholesale, and a potato dealer says he often ships them together without attempting to keep them separate.
The subject for the next meeting will be the "Cultivation of Corn."
Page
Two/Editorials.
Gov.
Hill has signed the bill making Ithaca a city. The act takes effect
June 1st. and the citizens
of that place propose to celebrate the important event in an appropriate and
fitting manner.
The [Cortland] Standard published an
editorial immediately after the election in Rhode Island, which it called the "beginning
of victory" for the Republican party. In view of the recent election held
in Louisiana, an article headed "The End of Victory," would appropriately
follow, but such an editorial won't be published in that organ for the reason
that our neighbor never consults propriety in politics.
The high license bill has passed both houses
of the legislature and is now in the hands of Governor Hill. Great pressure is being
brought to bear on him to sign the bill. Several republicans in the Assembly and
two or three Senators never would have voted for the bill if they had supposed
the Governor would allow it to become a law. The republican members of both
houses have been working all winter to put the Governor "in a hole"
and this bill is the result. Their idea is, that if he signs the bill, the
liquor men will be as mad as March hares and will crucify him if he runs for office
again, while if he vetoes the bill the temperance people will go back on him. If
the Governor consults his own personal political interests he will undoubtedly
veto the bill. Why? Because it will be an extremely cool day, when a
Prohibitionist walks up to the polls and deposits a ballot for him and when a temperance
republican votes for David B. Hill, the air will be full of genuine Dakota
blizzards. On the other hand the liquor dealers and brewers of all political
persuasions would find it to be for their own interests to stand by a man who had
the courage to stand by them in an emergency. A high license law might be beneficial
to the people of the State, but it should be enacted, if enacted at all, with that
purpose in view and not for the sole and only purpose of killing a political opponent.
From
Everywhere.
Geneva has 63 persons by the name of Smith.
3,999 emigrants landed at Castle Garden last
Sunday.
Utica has a base ball nine composed of young
ladies.
The Corning library has 10,000 volumes and
no readers.
There are sixteen cases of cancer in the village
of Ithaca.
There are said to be about fifty drinking
places in Seneca Falls, or one to each 150 inhabitants.
State Treasurer Fitzgerald [Cortland native—CC
editor] Wednesday received $3,075 from the dairy commissioner from fines and penalties
recovered for violation of the dairy laws.
A new building for the departments of civil
engineering and architecture at Cornell University is now in progress of erection.
The entire cost of the building will be $60,000.
No comments:
Post a Comment